How to identify a high-quality suit?

When it comes to investing in suits for men, distinguishing a high-quality suit from a subpar one can make a significant difference in terms of style, comfort, and durability. Whether you're eyeing a sleek formal jacket men or a complete ensemble, understanding the hallmarks of excellence is crucial. 

Renowned brands like Sacoor suits have set the benchmark for craftsmanship, but there are key indicators that can help you identify top-tier men's full suits regardless of the label. From the fabric and stitching to the fit and finishing touches, knowing what to look for ensures you select a suit that exudes sophistication and stands the test of time. 

Let's delve into the essential elements that define high-quality suits for men, so you can make an informed choice for your next sartorial investment.

What are the features of a well-made suit?

Fabric quality of a suit for men

The fabric is the foundation of any suit, and its quality significantly impacts the suit's appearance, comfort, and durability. High-quality men's full suits typically use natural fibers such as wool, cotton, silk, and linen. Wool is the most versatile and popular choice due to its durability, breathability, and ability to drape well. Look for suits made from 100% worsted wool, which has been tightly spun to create a smooth, resilient fabric that works for all seasons.

Luxurious fabrics like cashmere and silk blends offer a softer feel and a subtle sheen, making them ideal for special occasions. Sacoor suits, for example, often use premium fabrics that enhance both comfort and aesthetics. When shopping for a suit, always check the fabric label to ensure you're getting a high-quality material.

Construction and stitching

The construction of a suit determines its shape, durability, and overall quality. There are three main types of suit construction: fused, half-canvas, and full-canvas.

• Fused construction: this is the most common and least expensive method, where a layer of adhesive is used to bond the fabric to the interlining. While fused suits are cost-effective, they can be less durable and lack the natural drape of higher-quality suits.

• Half-canvas construction: this method uses a canvas layer in the chest and lapels, which is sewn rather than glued. Half-canvas suits offer a better fit and more natural movement compared to fused suits, balancing quality and affordability.

• Full-canvas construction: the gold standard in suit construction, full-canvas suits have a canvas layer running through the entire front of the jacket. This allows the fabric to mold to the body over time, providing the best fit and drape. Full-canvas suits are more expensive but offer superior quality and longevity.

Fit and tailoring

A well-made suit should fit perfectly, enhancing your body's natural shape without restricting movement. When trying on formal jacket mens or complete suits, pay attention to these key areas:

• Shoulders: the jacket should lie flat on your shoulders without any bunching or pulling. The seam should end where your shoulder does.

• Chest and waist: the jacket should button comfortably without pulling or creating wrinkles. You should be able to fit a fist between your chest and the jacket when buttoned.

• Sleeves: the sleeves should end at the wrist bone, allowing about half an inch of your shirt cuff to show.

• Trousers: the waistband should sit comfortably at your natural waist, with a slight break where the trouser leg meets your shoe.

Alterations are often necessary to achieve the perfect fit, so consider getting your suit tailored by a professional. Sacoor suits are known for their excellent tailoring, ensuring a precise fit that complements your physique.

Attention to detail

The details of a suit can distinguish a high-quality piece from an average one. Here are some features to look for:

• Buttons and buttonholes: high-quality suits use natural materials like horn, mother-of-pearl, or corozo for buttons. The buttonholes should be neatly sewn and functional, with no loose threads.

• Lining: a well-made suit often features a high-quality lining made of silk or a silk blend. The lining should be smooth and breathable, enhancing comfort.

• Pockets: the suit should have functional pockets that are neatly sewn and reinforced. Check for details like ticket pockets and internal pockets for added functionality.

• Stitching: look for even, closely spaced stitches, especially around the lapels, pockets, and seams. Hand-stitched suits, like those from Sacoor suits, often exhibit superior craftsmanship.

• Vent: the vents (slits) at the back of the jacket should lie flat and align properly. Single, double, or no vents can all be appropriate depending on your body type and personal preference.

How to tell a good quality suit?

To tell a good quality suit, check for a hand-set collar, a natural roll lapel, a barchetta pocket, pick stitching, a Neapolitan seam, functional buttonholes, an after-dinner split, interior lining, fine Italian fabrics, and horsehair canvas construction. These features ensure superior craftsmanship and durability.

Let’s take a look at these 10 hallmarks of what makes a suit a good quality suit in detail:

1. A hand-set collar

A hand-set collar is a hallmark of meticulous craftsmanship. The excess fabric is folded back onto itself and stitched by hand to create the thinnest collar possible. This labor-intensive process, involving up to 20 skilled hands, ensures that the seams are as thin and neat as possible. A properly executed hand-set collar hides excess fabric, which can be re-cut or re-shaped by a tailor to suit your style. This detail is especially prevalent in high-end men's full suits and formal jacket mens.

2. A lapel with a natural roll

A lapel with a natural roll is another indicator of a well-made suit. Instead of being heat-fused into place, a quality lapel is lined with a cotton and horsehair "floating" canvas, stitched in to provide volume and prevent flattening. This technique results in a lapel that has a rich, dynamic fluidity, eventually conforming to the wearer's shape. Thousands of stitches and light padding maintain this natural roll, which is a key feature in suits for men and sacoor suits.

3. The barchetta pocket

The barchetta pocket, named after the Italian word for "small boat," is a curved chest pocket that adds a touch of traditional flair to a suit. This welted pocket requires an experienced hand to create its gently curved opening, making it a time-intensive and aesthetic accent. Though functional, the barchetta pocket is primarily valued for its classic Italian design, often found in high-quality men's full suits.

4. The pick stitch

Pick stitching is a sartorial detail that adds texture and style to a suit. Known as amf stitching after the sophisticated machine that creates it, pick stitching lies along the edges of the jacket hem, shoulder, lapel, and pockets. This detail not only keeps the lining in place but also sharpens the edges and prevents rolling and curling. High-quality formal jacket mens often feature this traditional and stylish stitching.

5. The Neapolitan seam

The neapolitan seam is an intricate feature that provides both comfort and aesthetic appeal. Angled slightly backwards, this seam naturally curves with the shoulder, obscuring the seam from the front and offering more comfort. Matching the front and back jacket panels correctly is a challenging task that requires an experienced artisan. This detail is a clear indicator of a well-constructed suit, as seen in premium suits for men like Sacoor suits.

6. The functional buttonholes

Functional buttonholes, also known as surgeon cuffs, are a telltale sign of a quality suit. Historically made for 19th-century surgeons who needed to roll up their sleeves, these cuffs can be buttoned or unbuttoned for versatility and utility. Most suits feature fixed buttons that are purely aesthetic, but functional buttonholes offer both functionality and a sophisticated touch, commonly found in men's full suits and formal jacket mens.

7. The after-dinner split

An after-dinner split is a small, often overlooked detail that significantly enhances comfort and mobility. This small slit at the top center of the back of the trouser waistband allows for extra give when sitting, making it a practical feature for those who frequently attend formal dinners or events. This feature is a sign of well-constructed trousers, adding to the overall quality of suits for men.

8. The interior lining

Interior lining is a hidden but crucial component of a well-made suit. This layer supports high-use areas such as the trouser button or the inside jacket pocket, reinforcing the suit and preventing deterioration. High-quality sacoor suits often feature luxurious linings made from silk or robust cotton, enhancing both the durability and aesthetic appeal of the suit.